Hello everyone,

After a few weeks back, we’re still processing our first trip to Japan. Tokyo was fascinating, while Kyoto and the smaller towns exceeded all expectations. 

Every one of our seven days in Kyoto hit the “magic” level. We didn’t find crowds to be a problem. Thanks to jetlag, we hit the most popular places early in the morning. Otherwise, we generally stayed off the beaten path. In no particular order, here are some of the sites we fell for the hardest….

Otaji Nenbutsuji

This small temple has over 1200 little mossy Buddhist statues scattered across its hilly site. Each piece of stone was carved by a student of the temple’s sculptor-monks, and every single one bursts with life.

Kiyomizu-dera

Our dawn walk through southern Higashimaya allowed us to experience Kiyomizu-dera without the circus that shows up during business hours. Instead of clinging to the hillside, this temple complex is built out on an enormous (and nail-less) wooden scaffold, overlooking a ravine of glowing leaves. The temple entrance has dragon guardians instead of the usual lion-dog statues, and it’s easy to imagine them swirling over the hillside. 

Fushimi Inari

There is no place on earth like Fushimi Inari, with its thousands upon thousands of vermilion torii gates. Even better, there are also thousands of shrines of all sizes and ages scattered about, each presided over by pairs of messenger foxes. Getting up at the crack of dawn allowed us to climb the otherworldly trail with virtually no company besides a few members of the local cat colony. 

Kennin-ji

Surprisingly peaceful given its location in central Gion, Kennin-ji has artwork – old and new – which beats many museums. The collection includes very famous paintings, such as the gold screen with white and green gods of thunder and wind, and twin dragons writhing across the ceiling. But the lesser-known pieces are equally full of character.

Sanjusangen-do 

This temple juxtaposes the Japanese extremes of refined serenity and raw earthiness, along with the penchant for multiples. 1,001 golden Bodhisattvas stretch down the long main hall, arranged in tiers so their delicate features overlap. Ranged in front of them are a single row of deeply individual – and often strange – “attendant” statues carved from dark wood. 

Eikan-do

Beyond the fall foliage for which Eikan-do is famous, this temple complex takes the integration of architecture and landscaping to extraordinary heights. Walkways wind around buildings and small gardens, alternately hiding and revealing various levels. One stairway picked up the nickname “sleeping dragon corridor” for the way it echoes the hillside’s sinuous curves. 

Lions in the Piazza News

We’re currently researching an October trip to Thailand and Cambodia. As always we welcome recommendations, advice, or anecdotes.

Our latest posts are:

The Temples and Gardens of Kyoto’s Philosopher’s Path

When to Visit Kyoto’s Fushimi Inari: Early Morning vs. Night

Previous newsletters are posted on our beehiiv archive.

Happy summer!

Mary & Sarah

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