Hello everyone,

It’s December and time for a look back. Here are some standout places and experiences from our 2024 trips to Turkey, Greece, and Italy. Thanks for coming along with us, both here and on the blog. For our new subscribers, welcome!  Past newsletters can be found on our beehiiv archive page. 

Kastellorizo (Meis), Greece

This tiny island lies just two kilometers off the coast of Turkey but belongs to Greece. Known as Kastellorizo to the Greeks and Meis to the Turks, it combines heritage from both – along with a dose of Italian from a brief occupation in the 20th century. 

The island is largely devoid of settlement except for the short northern end, where the shoreline curves inward to create a spectacular bay littered with miniature islands. The town wraps around an impossibly scenic little harbor surrounded by timeless Mediterranean buildings in shades of blue and ochre. We filled a day swimming with Loggerhead turtles, exploring the back streets, and climbing up to various ruins on the hillside.

Ancient Theater in Termessos, Turkey

One of Turkey’s most dramatic sites, the ancient town of Termessos is up in the mountains above Antalya. A few ruins cluster around the parking area, but the main town lies about a 20 minute hike up a rough trail. Initially the mountainside seemed an odd choice, with little chance for farming or convenient trade. Then we hit the theater, a site so spectacular that the town’s remote location instantly made sense. 

For more information, see our post on the Ancient Ruins of Turkey’s Southern Coast.

Gulet Cruise on Turkey’s Turquoise Coast

The area between the cities of Fethiye and Antalya was home to an ancient league of democratic city-states which long outlasted those on the Greek mainland. Today these settlements form a chain known as the Lycian Way. Sunken cities, stone tombs, and necropolises cut directly into the rocky landscape make a dramatic if eerie counterpoint to the jewel-toned water. 

Local boats called gulets offer access to some of the more remote sites. From the town of Kaş, Captain Ergun ferried us between heavenly coves and ancient ruins, with plenty of swimming stops and an excellent lunch of grilled fish. Highlights included the submerged structures around Kekova Island and the nearby hamlet of Simena (a.k.a. Kaleköy).

For more information, see The Towns of the Turquoise Coast: Antalya, Kaş, and Fethiye.

Cappadoccia

We weren’t sure what to expect from Cappadocia and decided to start with just a few days’ visit. Turns out we could have happily spent much longer in the land of fairy chimneys. Although busloads of tourists flood some spots, there is still plenty of extraordinary wilderness in central Turkey. Affable taxi drivers filled for spotty bus service between trailheads, and local dogs guided us along some of our hikes. While the painted caves at Göreme were too crowded, exploring Love Valley, Uçhisar Castle, and the Zelve “Open Air Museum” was nothing short of magical. 

Sinan’s Mosques in Istanbul

Visiting Istanbul is a chance to experience the work of one of the greatest – and most prolific – architects of all time. It’s difficult to overstate the magnitude of Sinan’s accomplishments. As Chief Architect during the Ottoman Empire’s peak, he worked on every level, from planning neighborhoods to overseeing water systems and fire regulations. Above all his creations expressed Ottoman identity so perfectly that they can’t be separated.

Standouts among Sinan’s many mosque projects include the monumental Suleyman complex which dominates the city’s skyline with dozens of domes and multiple buildings such as shops, baths, and schools. The Rustem Pasha Mosque packs an unbelievable amount of form and color into a tiny package. The Mihrimah Sultan Mosque near the Edirnekapi Gate has one of the most brilliant dome constructions. But if we had to pick a favorite, it would probably be the tiny Sokullu Mosque in Sultanahmet.

For more information, see A Guide to Sinan’s Ottoman Masterpieces in Istanbul.

Lake Como’s Greenway Trail 

Lake Como’s most scenic stretch lies along the ten-kilometer trail known as the Greenway. Beginning in the central lake, it runs down the western leg through Tremezzo and past the island of Comacina. Along the water, it includes intimate coves and grand views, pebble beaches and formal parks, waterfront cafes and wooden jetties. Moving inland, elegant villas alternate with colorful warrens of stucco and stone, their twisting cobblestone alleys gradually giving way to olive groves, farms, meadows, and the occasional monastery. 

Plentiful blue-and-yellow signs and metal trail markers set in the ground make navigating the Greenway straightforward even without a map. In terms of difficulty, the trail falls between a stroll and a hike. Like most of Lake Como, it has a fair number of stairs and plenty of cobblestones. 

For more information, see A Guide to Lenno, Lake Como’s Most Idyllic Town.

San Miniato Monastery, Florence

Perched over the Arno River and the city of Florence, the hillside San Miniato al Monte monastery feels a world apart. Buses deposit passengers at the Piazzale Michelangelo amidst swarms of tour groups. A 5-10 minute walk up the hill leads to the same panoramic views without the masses – as well as one of the most beautiful churches in all of Italy.

Built in the 11th and 12th centuries, San Miniato incorporated ancient traditions such as mosaics and inlaid marble patterns in a fresh way which would greatly influence Florence’s Renaissance architects. On the inside, a medieval split-level configuration houses relics in the crypt, with the choir and presbytery above. Michelozzo, della Robbia, and other luminaries collaborated on a few later chapels. 

For more information, see our post on Less Crowded Sites in Florence.

Hadrian’s Villa, Tivoli

The emperor’s vast estate shows Roman architecture at its finest. Hadrian was passionate about building design, and personally contributed to the planning of multiple structures. The “villa” is actually more of a town, with administrative areas, temples, guest lodgings, baths, and  gardens as well as a palace. 

Out of all the remarkable spaces, the Maritime Theatre blew our minds. The bullseye layout is about as simple as could be, but the execution is full of nuance. Four openings in a high, round wall reveal an arcade running along the inside. Topped with remnants of a barrel vault, the columns border a circle of water with an island in the middle. The latter, with a grid of columns plus a few wall sections, suggests space with a streamlined elegance that feels modern 2,000 years later.

The UNESCO archaeological site makes for a spectacular day trip from Rome either on its own or in conjunction with the Villa d’Este in Tivoli. 

Lions in the Piazza News

Our latest posts include:

A Guide to Bikaner: India’s Unusual Red City

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A Guide to Rajasthan’s Most Epic and Historic Forts

We hope all of you have adventures planned in 2025. We’re collecting ideas for trips to Mexico and Japan. If any of you have suggestions, please do get in touch.

Mary & Sarah

[email protected]